Everything You Need to Know About Kyoto’s Food Scene

Kyoto is known for its numerous Buddhists temples, Shinto shrines, palaces and gardens – but don’t underestimate its exquisite food scene. From world-class cafes to temple food, Kyoto is one of the best places to eat on earth. Prepare yourself for an extraordinary journey of culinary exploration in the remarkable city of Kyoto!

Don’t miss Nishiki Market

Known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen”, Nishiki Market has over 400 years of history lining its five-block shopping street. Originating as a fish wholesale district, the market has now expanded to one hundred shops and restaurants. This lively retail market has dozens of shops selling Kyoto specialities, fresh fish, pickles, Japanese confectionery, cutlery and much more. Make sure to try these treats when you’re visiting Nishiki Market:

• Takoyaki
• Tamagoyaki (egg omlette)
• Seafood (octopus, skewered fish, conger tempura)
• Soy milk doughnuts
• Matcha soft serve
• Mochi’s & Manju’s

Shojin Ryori & Temple Food

Shōjin Ryōri or devotion cuisine is Japan’s traditional temple cuisine. Shōjin Ryōri stems from Chinese Buddhist cuisine, which Chinese monks introduced to Japan in the 13th century.

In Buddhist tradition, the killing and consumption of sentient beings is prohibited due to the belief that it negatively affects one’s spiritual well-being and ability to meditate.

Ingredients like milk and eggs were not introduced to Japan until the 19th century and it does eschew onions and garlic (since they’re considered impure). As a result, Shōjin Ryōri heavily relies on soybean in various forms, seasonally fresh and preserved vegetables and foraged foods like wild greens and mushrooms. 

The Making of Sacred Food

The preparation, much like the ingredients, is incredibly important. Those preparing the food must pay attention to colors, flavors and methods, all in sets of five: flavors (salty, sour, bitter, spicy, sweet), colors (green, yellow, red, black, white), and cooking methods (raw, boiled, baked, fried, steamed). It is also essential to try and minimize waste – for instance, scraps are used as pickles or stock, and some are fried to make tempura. Everything from the ingredients to the methods of preparation are methodically executed. Often the dishes are served in red bowls and on a tray with raised edges. According to food writer Alex Halberstadt, the red is an auspicious color while the raised edge of the tray symbolizes that the meal is taking place in a sacred space. 

Experiencing Shōjin Ryōri is a must when visiting Kyoto. The atmosphere is zen and one of a kind. The cuisine is truly an art form one must enjoy for themselves. 

Here are some recommendations for establishments where you can savor sumptuous temple cuisine. It is advised to make reservations, particularly during peak seasons or festivities such as the New Year.

• Shigetsu located inside Tenryu-ji Temple (Arashiyama)
• Manpuku-ji specializes in Fucha Ryōri, a Chinese Buddhist cuisine (Uji)
• Ikkyu located inside Daitoku-ji Temple is over 500 years old (Kyoto)

Depachika: Basement-level Food Markets

Food markets at department stores or shopping malls aren’t unique to Japan but like most things, they exude excellence. The name comes from the Japanese word depato meaning department store, and chicka meaning basement. On the basement floors of Daimaru, Porta, JR Kyoto Isetan and Takashimaya are a food-lovers haven!

These basement floors are filled with eateries ranging from established confectioners to bentō meals as well as high-end fruit and fresh fish. You can even grocery shop at depachikas. After a day of shopping or sightseeing the wonders of Kyoto, you must pay a visit to one of these expansive markets. Don’t forget to check out the luxurious fruit selections, with mangoes and muskmelons ranging between $100 to $250.

Below are some great depachika shops: 

• 551 Horai is a Chinese dim sum and bun shop specializing in everything from gyozas to Chinese bao buns. Locations include Kyoto Isetan, Takashimaya, Daimaru and Porta stores
• Wittamer & Antenor bakes delicious shortcakes at Kyoto Takashimaya and Kyoto Daimaru
• Tempura Yasaka Endou offers top quality tempura at Kyoto Daimaru

Konbini Stores 

Konbini stores are the holy grail for on-the-go bites and cheap eats. In Japan, the 24/7 konbini is essential in so many ways; a place where you can do everything from pay bills to pick up packages and, of course, grab a late-night bite. These convenience stores are hailed in Japan as some of the best spots to grab affordable and ready to eat foods. Locals and tourists favorites include Lawson’s tamago (egg salad) sandwiches, FamilyMart Famichiki fried chicken, Ministop Ice cream parfait, and Seicomart Hokkaido Ice cream. Baked goods, onigiri, bentō boxes and much more are also favored staples at konbini stores.

• Family Mart
• 7-Eleven
• Lawson
• Ministop
• Seicomart

Kissaten: Exploring Kyoto’s Cafe Culture

From coffeehouse salons and trending new-age hubs to bonsai-garden hideaways, and yes, even Starbucks, cafes in Kyoto are serious business.

• master-piece coffee is nestled inside a retail store and overlooks a tranquil Japanese garden
• Starbucks Nineizaka Yasaka Chaya is the first tatami-floored Starbucks. Located in the heart of Gion, in a traditional machiya townhouse
• Smart Coffee offers fantastic coffee along with lavish light bites including tamago sandwiches and fluffy pancakes

Lines, lines and more lines!

Kyotoites and tourists alike take food seriously and are willing to wait. If you’ve, like many other eager food purveyors, flocked to one of Kyoto’s famed eateries, be prepared for the lines.

A reservation or two can avoid this but some places are first come, first serve. While I typically stray away from restaurants with queues (who wants to spend holiday in a line) but some places are truly worth the wait and the lines are indicative of that.

Dishes that are unique to Kyoto

• Nishin soba – buckwheat noodles served with dried herring
• Obanzai – traditional Kyoto style cuisine
• Shōjin ryōri – Buddhist temple food
• Kyokaiseki – Kyoto style haute cuisine
• Yudofu – silken tofu simmered with kombu
• Gyukatsu – fried tender beef steak
• Sabazushi – mackerel sushi wrapped in kombu

Sweet Treats

• Gion Kinana is a cafe and ice cream shop in Gion serving housemade soybean ice cream. The kinako ice cream is the house speciality. The three scoop flight is suggested so you can sample different flavors. They also serve spectacular parfaits
• Matcha Roll Cake from Marukyu Koyamaen Nishinotoin Tea Shop is one of the most spectacular matcha desserts you’ll ever have. This shop also specializes in various kinds of tea confectionaries and premium green teas
• Tasuki confectionery shop lies in the trendy Shinpūkan shopping center. Tasuki specializes in kakigōri (shaved ice desserts flavored with syrups and condensed milk). Innovative flavor combinations include Strawberry daifuku, Chocolate & Orange and Berry White. This shop is the perfect stop for a sweet treat after a long day of exploring Kyoto
• MOGU Kyoto is a tiny but mighty French confectionery shop serving the most delectable shortcakes, cookies and much more! Highlights include strawberry shortcake, caramel pudding, madeleines and scones. You simply cannot go wrong no matter the choice but visit early as they do sell out

Special Mentions

From the crispy perfection of tonkatsu to the soul-warming embrace of legendary soba shops, Kyoto’s gastronomic scene is an epicurean paradise. While Kyoto is jam packed with appetizing eats, these just happened to be a few of my favorites. 

Honke Owariya

Honke Owariya is renowned as one of the finest soba establishments in Kyoto and stands as one of Japan’s most time-honored restaurants, with a history dating back to the year 1465.

Sushi Rakumi

Sushi Rakumi is a one Michelin-starred sushiya in the prestigious Higashiyama district of Kyoto. Their exceptional omakase experience flawlessly blends traditional edomae sushi techniques with inspirations from the Kanto and Kansai regions. With their youthful and playful approach, every bite at Sushi Rakumi promises to be a delightful journey worth savoring.

Katsukura Sanjo Honten

Tonkatsu restaurant Katsukura Sanjo Honten carefully selects its ingredients and sources high-quality Japanese brand pigs for their signature crisp pork cutlet. The tonkatsu is served with a luscious demi-glace sauce made with red wine, fruits and spices. 

Ramen Sen No Kaze

At Ramen Sen No Kaze it’s a one woman show running one of the hottest ramen shops near Nishiki Market. The skilled owner makes a pure tonkotsu broth with pork bones from Kyushu resulting in its creamy and white appearance. She eschews the animal-head material so the broth is light, refreshing and full-bodied. Queues here are no joke and range upwards of 2-3 hours but don’t fret, it’s more than worth the wait.

Grill Kodakara

Specializing in retro-style Westernized cuisine, Grill Kodakara is a famous restaurant with a rich history. They are renowned for their delectable omu-rice (omelette rice), along with dishes like hamburger steak and hashed beef rice.

Sobashubo Ichii

Located one bus stop from Kinkaku-ji (The Golden Pavilion) lies one of the most amazing soba shops in Kyoto, Sobashubo Ichii. Fresh soba noodles are cut daily and while everything on the menu is exquisite, there are obvious standouts. The real star of the show is the Kamo Nanban Soba (buckwheat noodles with duck meat & Japanese leek). In a period of three months, I came back at least seven times to enjoy this restaurant. The seiro soba, seasonal tempura and limited buckwheat crème brûlée are certainly great choices as well.

Loosen Up!

Loosen up is an intimate and unpretentious tendon restaurant in the heart of the Gion district. Any of the tendon bowls are a go and don’t forget to wash it down with a refreshing glass of iced yuzucha. With nine seats total expect a wait.

Kitenya

Kitenya is a real hidden gem serving some of the best authentic Japanese tempura in Kyoto. 

とりこ

とりこ grills mouthwatering yakitori in Kamigyo near Kyoto Imperial Palace. The eccentric owner exudes originality with innovative takes like chicken liver pate as well as black and white tsukune.

Unagi Sora

Unagi Sora is an eel restaurant just steps away from Nishiki Market. This eel restaurant serves three different kinds of brand eel including, Tosa no Igosso, Tsukushi gold eel and Sky eel. The premium eel is masterfully prepared in two ways: Kabayaki and Shirayaki. 

Pro-tips for Kyoto’s Food Scene

Here’s a few pro-tips for navigating Kyoto’s food scene:

• If possible, always make reservations and do so in advance.
• Utilize your hotel’s concierge team for help when making reservations. They’ll be useful for language barriers and may have connections to get you into the hottest restaurants on the fly.
• Show some gratitude and kindness by learning a few Japanese words including – Sumimasen (Excuse me or sorry), Konnichiwa (Good afternoon or hello), Konbanwa (Good evening) and Oishī (delicious). Learning these simple phrases will get you a long way and show you’re willing to adopt some of the Japanese language and culture.

I hope you enjoyed this brief Kyoto food guide as well as the flavors I’ve experienced. But this is just the beginning! Kyoto has an exquisite culinary scene that extends far beyond what’s mentioned here. Kyoto is a city full of delightful eats that I hope you get to explore!

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