Joie de Vivre: A Guide to the French Riviera

The French Riviera, also known as the Côte d’Azur is something out of a storybook. This sprawling Mediterranean coastline is dotted with ancient villages, rich cultural history, delectable cuisine and virtually any luxury pleasure your bank account can afford. There’s an enchanting allure about the Côte d’Azur that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world. The French Riviera’s Mediterranean mild climate brings lush foliage and long balmy nights in the summer, along with perfect cycling, running and sailing conditions over the winter months.

From palatial mega-yachts and exclusive beach clubs to lush coastlines and Provençal cuisine, the Côte d’Azur opulence knows no bounds – and this guide will help you navigate it all.

Antibes

Antibes is an idyllic Provençal city steeped in history and culture. Its breathtaking vistas, stunning harbor, pristine beaches and labyrinth cobblestone streets feel as if you’re stepping into a dreamscape. It’s easy to see why artists like Monet, Picasso and Chagall couldn’t get enough of Vieil Antibes (Old Antibes). The ancient city has well preserved medieval and Renaissance fortifications, giving visitors a more authentic character and atmosphere.

Antibes Cultural History

Antibes has a rich history in classical art with its Roman heritage, as well as contemporary painting, drawing the likes of Pablo Picasso, Claude Monet and Henri Matisse. The seaside town and its beautiful scenes have been an inspiration to artists back to Monet’s 1888 painting of Cap d’Antibes. Art lovers should visit the Musée Picasso, housed in the Château Grimaldi. Musée Picasso showcases a fascinating curation of the artist’s paintings including some from his time in the South of France, showing the artists’ profound connection to the region. 

To see Antibes as Monet, Picasso, Cross, Boudin and Harpignies–once did, head to the tourist office for a pamphlet (available in English) on the Painters’ Trail (complete with map) or sign up for a guided walk along the trail.

Gelateria Del Porto

A visit to Gelateria Del Porto is a must when in Antibes. This renowned glacier is serving some of the most delicious and high-quality frozen treats in the Côte d’Azur. Vivid memories rush back of the refreshing mango and melon sorbet tasting soooo good on an especially hot summer day.

Exploring Cap d’Antibes

The marvelous peninsula of Cap d’Antibes running between Antibes and Juan-les-Pins, features lush Mediterranean vegetation and magnificent villas hidden between the trees. With its alluring blend of natural and architectural marvels, Cap d’Antibes makes for an exceptional site.

One of the must-try activities is walking along the Sentier du Littoral, a coastal path that weaves around the cape. This trail unveils the spectacular Billionaires Bay, a display of prosperity where grandiose villas peek from verdant vegetation, each narrating its own tale of the Riviera’s luxurious past and present. 

The most beautiful thing about Antibes is its incomparable cape where you find what? Everything; green myrtles to the shore, umbrella pines for naps, and jagged rocks, and creeks, and creeks so rich in fish that, on certain days, to see this swarming of scales, you would swear that the bottom of the sea is paved with silver.

Poet Paul Arène

Peppered with gorgeous sights and turquoise waters easily makes Cap d’Antibes one of my favorite spots.

Juan-les-Pins vs. Antibes

Juan-les-Pins is a popular destination for jet-setters, and known for its sandy white beaches.  Administratively part of greater-Antibes, Juan-les-Pins nevertheless has a much different vibe than its neighbor. Younger tourists prefer the vibrance and spirited revelry of Juan-les-Pins, while Antibes offers a relaxed, almost timeless appeal.

Juan-les-Pins is known for its bustling nightlife, beach clubs and famous music festivals. Juan-les-Pins architecture features modern and contemporary buildings while Antibes architecture has a more enchanting ancient feel. If you’re looking for a lively and more exciting atmosphere, do visit Juan-les-Pins.

Cannes

The city of Cannes exudes glamor, luxury and sophistication. From its crystal clear waters and white sand beaches to its world renowned film festival and Provençal market, there’s an array of things to do in Cannes that caters to every traveler’s tastes.

Experience the excitement of Cannes Film Festival

The Cannes Film Festival is one of the most prestigious events in the world of cinema. Also known as Le Festival International du Film, the event takes place in May for two weeks. It’s the event of the season and truly kicks off the start of summer in the South of France. Walk down the famous La Croisette during the festival and you will definitely spot celebrities. Cinephiles can also attend paid screenings of the previous Palme d’Or winners at the Croisette at night.

Stroll along La Croisette

The first thing you’ll want to do when visiting Cannes is take in the famous La Croisette, the seaside walking promenade. While one side of the promenade is lined with elegant fashion boutiques and 5-star hotels, the other is dotted with white sandy beaches. After indulging in some window-shopping, go relax and have lunch at one of the many beach restaurants.

Note: The strip is glamorous and unabashedly so, but it is also relaxed enough to stroll in airy linen beach clothes. Out of respect for the French sense of decorum, you’ll want to leave the athleisure outfit in your suitcase and zhuzh it up for this walk.

Cannes Yachting Festival

Held annually in September, the Cannes Yachting Festival is an exclusive maritime event taking place at both Vieux Port and Port Pierre Canto. The festival is the highlight of the international yachting circuit and features some of the most luxurious and expensive boats from around Europe. The festival draws an international crowd, with shipbuilders showcasing their grand designs. Approximately 50% of attendees come from overseas, making it a vibrant and diverse event. For those seeking a truly unique experience, you can charter a yacht for a day and explore Cannes from the water.

Shopping at Marché Forville

Located near the famous La Croisette and at the foot of the ancient neighborhood of Le Suquet, is a local institution. A trip to Marché Forville is a feast for the senses. This indoor farmers market sells delicious fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, meat, seafood, olive oil, flowers and much more. It’s open from around 8am to 12:30pm everyday. Many locals love to pick up some food here and have a picnic on the beach.

Explore the beauty of the Lérin Islands

The Lérin Islands offer visitors a captivating blend of natural beauty and historical wonder. This small archipelago consists of four idyllic islands, but only two are accessible to the public: Île Sainte-Honorat and Île Saint-Marguerite.

Île Saint-Marguerite, the largest and most prominent of the islands, is home to stunning beaches and Fort Royal, a 17th-century fort where the enigmatic Man in the Iron Mask was famously imprisoned. Île Sainte-Honorat is an ethereal paradise steeped in history and spirituality, where monks have cultivated vineyards and led contemplative lives since the Middle Ages. For those seeking a true seafaring adventure, or at the very least a brief boat ride away, the Lérins Islands make for an ideal destination. The islands are just 5 km off the shore of Cannes. If you’re in Cannes for more than a couple of days, take a ferry and visit the nearby islands.

Cap d’Ail

Coastal walk to Mala Beach

One of Cap d’Ail best kept secrets is the coastal path to Mala Beach. Splashed with rare Mediterranean flora, exotic scents, azure waters, mysterious volcanic rocks and sumptuous belle époque villas, you will be entranced the entire way. The 3.5 km trail starts around Monaco at Beach Marquet and ends at the intimate and unspoiled Mala Beach. Nestled in a cove surrounded by pine trees and cliffs, this is the perfect spot for cliff-jumping.

Èze

One of the most beautiful villages on the French Riviera lies perched atop a mountain, 400 meters above sea level. Èze is a medieval village with a turbulent history dating back to the Neolithic era of 2000 BC. The village was occupied by the Romans, Moors, French and Turkish before the people of Èze ultimately agreed to join as a territory of France. Often described as the Eagles Nest, Èze gives visitors impressive panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea and overlooks the Côte d’Azur coastline. The cobblestone streets and ancient medieval architecture sets the tone for an mesmerizing escape.

Enjoy incredible views from Château Eza

With over 400 years of history, Château Eza was built within the city walls and encompasses several homes flawlessly blended together. The intimate and charming setting of the hotel transports guests into another realm. The hotel offers world-class gastronomy and breathtaking views of the coast from its lounge bar overlooking the sparkling azure waters of the French Riviera.

Fun Fact: The most valuable treasure in Èze has always been water. There is no source in the village, and water had to be carried in buckets from the outlet located at the nearby road. It was not until 1930 that the American composer Samuel Barlow financed the construction of a fountain with water in the center of the village. Èze has been connected to the main water supply system since 1952.

Walk the cobblestone streets of Èze

Head up the stairs and be delighted with an enchanting walk through the ancient village. Strolling through the cobblestone streets reveals centuries old stonework set off by sublime detailing. From the wrought-iron street lamps to the pastel shutters, there is something extraordinary to see at every turn. When visiting Èze, be sure to wear comfortable shoes because this charming village is impassable by car.

Gastronomy & Glorious views

When it comes to gastronomy, the tiny village of Èze doesn’t disappoint. 

La Chèvre d’Or (The Golden Goat) is a phenomenal 2-Michelin starred restaurant celebrated for exceptional local cuisine and culinary execution. Like the meal, the setting is just as striking, set atop a rocky hilltop of the medieval village, you’ll be rewarded with stunning views. The restaurant’s pastry chef, Florent Margaillan has been awarded with ‘Passion Dessert’, a Michelin Guide honor for talented pastry chefs, so be sure to leave room for dessert. 

Château Eza is a delightful 1-Michelin starred restaurant specializing in modern cuisine. One of the most special aspects of a meal here is the magical setting – dazzling panoramic views with the mountains plunging into the Mediterranean Sea.

Visit the Jardin Exotique d’Èze

This garden possesses some of the most striking scenery in Èze. The garden is located on the site of a medieval fortress featuring several succulent plants and spectacular views. Here is where history and nature converge to create something unforgettable.

Monaco

Monaco may be small (the second smallest country after Vatican City) but within this 2.02 km2 (0.78 sq mi) citystate, there’s more than meets the eye. From the multimillion dollar yachts glinting in the Monte Carlo harbor to the endless barrage of supercars, Monaco oozes privilege. Known as an enclave for the wealthy, Monaco offers its residents discreet banking facilities, neatly secured streets and plenty of recreation for the rich. For visitors wishing to bask in some Monaco glitz, keep reading on for the inside scoop.

Monte Carlo

Monte Carlo houses some of the best sporting events and festivals in the world. Monte Carlo is home to the ATP Masters 1000 Tennis Tournament during the clay court season. It also hosts the world renowned Formula One Monaco Grand Prix which takes place on the Circuit de Monaco held in late May or early June. For music enthusiasts, you can attend the Monte Carlo Jazz Festival in November, at the historical Opéra Garnier.

Moneyed spectators from around the globe flock to Monte Carlo for these star-studded events. The streets transform into racetracks, the marinas fill with mega-yachts and the micro state turns into something of a spectacle.

Recreation for the Rich

Monaco is a playground for the rich, plain and simple. The famed streets of Avenue de. Monte-Carlo and Avenue Princesse Alice house some of Monaco’s most iconic landmarks including The Casino de Monte-Carlo, Café de Paris and The Hotel de Paris. Surrounding the elegant Casino Gardens are high-end stores, designer boutiques, award-winning restaurants, and the principality’s most luxurious spas and wellness centers.

Just a few minutes away you have the beaches of Larvotto and on the other side Port Hercule Marina where lies many resplendent superyachts and a possible berth for your own yacht to moor too. There’s no shortage of glamorous things to spend your money on in Monaco.

Monaco’s Marinas

Nestled along the French Riviera, Monaco’s marinas offer exceptional moorings coupled with state-of-the-art facilities, attracting the world’s most lavish superyachts. Port Hercules, a 700-berth port in La Condamine, is lined with some of the world’s largest superyachts, that you could buy with $600 million or so to spare. Port Hercules also hosts the annual Monaco Yacht Show, where one can immerse themselves in the world of nautical grandeur and elegance.

Le Rocher, The Rock of Monaco

Le Rocher also known as The Rock, is the heart of the Principality of Monaco, its historical quarter. Le Rocher features several places of note, including the Prince’s Palace. Located on top of a rocky settlement above the rest of the Principality is the oldest neighborhood in Monaco and draws you into the old-age history of Monaco.

Note: The principality has been ruled by the same Grimaldi family since 1297!

Another notable landmark in the district is the Notre-Dame-Immaculée de Monaco Cathedral, made famous by the 1956 wedding of Prince Rainier III to American actress Grace Kelly. ​​The neighborhood is also home to the Oceanographic Museum, built by Prince Albert I in 1910. Sometimes called the Temple of the Sea, the museum, run by the famous oceanographer and diver Jacques Cousteau between 1957 and 1988, is dedicated to marine research and protection. 

The district gets quiet at night, so it’s a great place to get away from touristy crowds and noise, as well as to take in the views from high above the Mediterranean.

Jardins

It can seem almost impossible to recess from the vanity and materialism of Monaco but there are hidden gems throughout the citystate. Jardin de Exotique de Monaco is a cliff-side exotic garden offering breathtaking views of the Principality of Monaco. The garden is filled with succulents and cacti imported from around the world. The Princess Grace Japanese Garden transports visitors to the Land of the Rising Sun without having to leave the Principality. The garden is in accordance with the strictest Zen principles, including: a pond, islands, a waterfall, lanterns, bridges, a tea house and a Zen garden. 

Those looking for a brief retreat immersed in nature will rejoice at these lovely gardens.

Nice

Centrally Located

Nice is the center of the Côte d’Azur and offers a plethora of accommodations, modes of transportation, world-class shopping and phenomenal local-fare. The Nice Côte d’Azur Airport (NCE) serves as one of the two international airports in the region that are gateways to picturesque towns and coastal wonders. For the well-heeled, you can even charter helicopter transfers from Nice to Monaco. Transit via private car, taxi, rideshare (Uber & Bolt), train or bus are options as well. 

If you’re looking to be centrally located with an abundance of accommodations, dining options and ample shopping, do stay in Nice. You will be able to navigate about the Côte d’Azur easily and conveniently.

Vieux Nice

Vieux Nice or Old Town Nice is the cultural epicenter of the South of France. Not only is it the historical district of Nice, but it serves as one of Nice’s tourist hubs. The area is littered with quaint narrow streets lined with religious edifices, museums, gallaries, restaurants and shopping boutiques. You can buy everything here, from Provençal spices to hand-made jewelry and cosmetics. Just go in and let yourself be carried away by the past, which is still very much present here.

Promenade de Anglais

One of the best and arguably most important attractions in Nice is the Promenade de Anglais (Walkway of the English). It stretches seven kilometers and provides an uninterrupted view of the azure sea and palm trees. The name comes from the English aristocrats who came to Nice in the 18th century to enjoy the health benefits of the local climate. The lords and their wives wanted to walk comfortably and as a result, a seaside promenade was built (with the hands and finances of the English people). 

Promenade de Anglais is popular for much more than just walking. Sports enthusiasts flock to the strip for roller skating, cycling and even beach volleyball. For cycling fans, the 2024’s Tour de France will finish in Nice on the Promenade de Anglais. Fashionable hotels and casinos also line the promenade offering guests world-class views and a front row seat to the action.

For the best views over Nice and a respite from the hustling and bustling city center, take an adventure to the Colline du Château. The winding staircases lead to magnificent views of Nice’s red-tiled rooftops, ample green space and an artificial waterfall.

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

The hamlet of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat was, until the end of  the 19th century, a fishing and farming village. Overtime, this once humble village has transformed into a billionaires’ enclave and sanctum for the ultra-rich. This intimate commune offers more than vanity and frivolity. It is strewn with glamorous villas from the belle époque period, lush vegetation and scenic coastal trails. 

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is undoubtedly my favorite village in the Côte d’Azur. It’s a beautiful place to slow down and relax. If you’re seeking an intimate hideaway from the liveliness of the Côte d’Azur, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is the place for you.

Visit the Iconic Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild

The Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is the jewel of the Côte d’Azur. This famed pink, Renaissance-inspired palace was built on the heights of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat by baroness Béatrice de Rothschild. The villa has been transformed into a museum allowing you to discover the private apartments in Florentine and Venetian styles, as well as a breathtaking collection of works of art (furniture, porcelain, paintings, sculptures, etc). 

The villa is most famous for its elaborate French, Japanese, and tropical gardens, as well as the rose and plant festivals that take place in May. Overlooking the Bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer and Beaulieu-sur-Mer, the gardens offer exceptional panoramic views of the coast.

Bask on Paloma Beach

Often regarded as one of the best beaches in the South of France is Paloma Beach and for good reason. This semi-private beach with its sheltered location offers crystal clear waters and a stunning backdrop of palatial villas hidden behind rich vegetation. The Paloma Beach Club is open from May through September offering delicious cuisine, beach bed rentals, water sports and even taxi-boat services. If you want to avoid crowds and secure a beach bed, arrive early in the morning or make reservations in advance.

Fun Fact: The film 50 Shades Freed shot scenes at Paloma Beach.

Enjoy a Luxurious Retreat at Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat

Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat epitomizes old-school glamor balanced with unpretentious, relaxed elegance. Situated at the tip of a lush peninsula, this stately seaside palace is a one-of-a-kind vestige of the belle époque bygone era. With a guest book signed by everyone from Elizabeth Taylor to Winston Churchill, the historical reputation speaks for itself. The 14-acres of immaculate gardens, sumptuous rooms and suites, fine dining establishments and its illustrious beach club will impress even the most seasoned hedonist.

Walk along the Coastal trails

The headlands of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a peaceful refuge. There are three glorious trails to choose from: Promenade Maurice Rouvier, Pointe Saint-Hospice, and Tour of Cap-Ferrat, each offering a unique perspective and scenic views of the French Riviera. 

The Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat coastal trails are arguably the most beautiful seaside walks in the world. Cap Ferrat’s lush green, white rocks and Mediterranean blue sea makes this walk an unforgettable one.

Saint Tropez

Saint Tropez is one of the world’s top destinations for the jet set crowd, with a well-earned hedonistic reputation. Highly-fashionable trust funders and A-list celebrities flock (by yacht or by helicopter) to this tiny resort town every summer. But how did this once humble fishing town transform into a glamorous paradise for the wealthy? Keep reading for the inside scoop on St. Tropez’s history, best beach clubs, luxury hotels and more.

A-List Oasis

It all started in 1957 with the release of Roger Vadim’s film And God Created Woman. Set in Saint Tropez, it was the film’s star, 23 year old actress Bridgette Bardot, who brought attention to the village, making it her home for 20 years. Billionaire Lebanese hotelier, Jean-Prosper Gay-Para became so enamored with the actress and her coquettish ways, that he decided to “build a palace in Saint Tropez worthy of Bardot”. This is the story of Hotel Byblos and its culmination, cementing Saint Tropez’s ultra-chic status.

Celebrities and big wigs from Naomi Campbell and Jeff Bezos to Jay-Z and Beyonce find their way to Saint Tropez in the summer. Why you may ask? The Mediterranean climate, lively nightlife, extravagance, anonymity and village atmosphere is what keeps them coming back for more.

Ramatuelle

Saint Tropez’s beach is among the most famous in the world, and certainly the most posh beach party scene on the French Riviera. Saint Tropez is the place to go if you like to experience the m’as-tu vu (that is, see and be seen, or literally “have you seen me”). The most famous beach-clubs are not actually in Saint Tropez, but in the bordering Ramatuelle, on Pampelonne Beach (which is 6 km away from Saint Tropez or about a 15 minute drive). In reality, this beach belongs to the closest village being Ramatuelle rather than Saint Tropez itself. 

Here’s 8 unmissable beach clubs in Saint Tropez: Le Club 55, Tahiti Beach, Bagatelle Beach, Byblos Beach, Nikki Beach, Moorea Plage, Club des Palmiers and Réservé à la Plage. If you’re looking for a beach club that’s more family friendly, Gigi Ramatuelle and Les Salins are great options.

The Hamptons of Europe

Year after year, A-listers have made the Côte d’Azur their summer residence, with some famous faces even buying property in Saint Tropez. Stars including Bono, Johnny Depp, and Joan Collins have all owned villas for their French Riviera getaways.

Similar to its East Coast cousin, like the Hamptons, Saint Tropez comes alive in the summertime. Trust-funders, models and cigar-chomping moguls flock like no other, to party like there’s no tomorrow. Outside of the summer season, much like the Hamptons, Saint Tropez effectively shuts down. Hotels, restaurants and boutiques close up shop during the winter break and Saint Tropez can feel a bit like a ghost town.

Note: If you are coming outside of the May through September season, don’t expect much activity.

Hedonistic Reputation

There’s nothing quite like Mediterranean hedonism and in Saint Tropez, it’s always en vogue. From the majestically luxurious chateaus and gourmet Provençal cuisine to the lively never-ending beach parties and clubs, Saint Tropez does hedonism like no place else. Summering in Saint Tropez is the time for indulgences and partaking in the sumptuous pleasures this village is famous for. Leave the belief of moderation at home, as it has no place here.

Villefranche-sur-Mer

The magical coastal town of Villefranche-sur-Mer is an absolute must visit when you’re traveling along the Côte d’Azur. This stunning town boasts vivid colorful streets, a picturesque harbor, crystal-clear turquoise water and a perfect beach to relax for the afternoon.

With its pastel buildings, seaside restaurants and excellent location between Nice and Monaco, Villefranche-sur-Mer is unmissable to in-the-know tourists. It is close to everything, yet charming and quiet. Perhaps that’s why rock-and-roll royalty such as Kieth Richards and Tina Turner own villas here.

There are two beaches in Villefranche-sur-Mer: Plage des Marinières is the main sandy beach and Plage de la Darse is the one with pebbles.

The Seaside Old Town

The locals call themselves Villefranchoise, and they are mostly of Italian origin. It has 5000 inhabitants and the camaraderie of its locals makes it more of a genuine community compared to several other famous towns.

The town itself remains humble, so there’s no Gucci or Hermès boutiques or glitzy nightclubs here. Behind the restaurant-line quay are shops packed high with fabrics and cozy wine bars in candle lit squares.

Compared to towns like St. Paul de Vence and Èze, Villefranche-sur-Mer has definitely retained an authentic local atmosphere.

The Lovely Quay & Port

Superyachts wrestle for space out in the bay each summer. But here on the docks, you’ll also find one of the last families of fishermen selling freshly caught sea bream and red mullet in the mornings.

Chapelle de St-Pierre

The ecclesiastical building was decorated by artist Jean Cocteau in 1957, hence the name Cocteau Chapel. This ancient Romanesque chapel dedicated to Saint Peter, Patron Saint of Fishermen, was entirely restored and decorated by the Jean Cocteau, and has become an outstanding example of the creative fusion between tradition, spirituality and art.

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